The Magic of Anti-Pollution Skin Care

Why are we, as humans, drawn to the ocean? Phytomer believes the answer to be that since humans evolved from the ocean, it is an inherited appreciation of our previous home. They turned this inspiration into research, and revealed that the human body has a high affinity to ocean water. 

One of the many benefits of utilizing seawater for skincare is that Phytomer has derived several detoxifying and depolluting ingredients from their research. They have used this to create a line of skincare devoted to energizing the skin. Anyone who lives in a city or bikes regularly is exposed to pollution (smoke, metals, etc.) that ends up dulling the complexion. In addition, pollution inevitably speeds up signs of aging. The recourse to this is to oxygenate and replenish the skin, which can be done using products from Phytomer's Anti Pollution line.

Know the Past to Understand the Present

Starting 50 years ago, Phytomer transformed the beauty and skincare industry with their revolutionary science and approach to ingredients. Over 5 decades and 3 generations later, they still hold true to their original mission of giving “everyone, everywhere, wherever they are – by the sea or in the city – the gift of natural, healthy, sustainable beauty.” To this day, Phytomer is still a family-run business at its core. 

Early on, the Gédouin family learned that our ocean waters held many natural riches of biological elements that are essential to beautiful skin. How lucky we are, too, because our bodies can recognize and accept these riches easily through our skin! If you've never thought about how much your skin absorbs from the air and water around it, consider the common usage of topical nicotine or birth-control patches. Phytomer's facility is research driven, with a staff of over 30 specialists (MD’s, chemists, pharmacologists, estheticians, osteopaths, etc.). 

They are one of the few facilities that go from research, collection of ingredients, development, then ending with manufacturing the final product. Phytomer is so dedicated to their research they are the only marine based company that is manufacturing their own active ingredients. They take the time to analyze and perfect how to get the best benefit from these ingredients, not releasing it until it’s just right. Thanks to plastic surgeons in France, they are the only marine-based cosmetic company to perform in vitro and in vivo testing checking for toxicology to ensure safety to produce. 

The best part is they hold patents on hundreds of ingredients, even during the research phase. Once they have found something even better, they sell away to department store labs. The 3 generations of research are shared with 80 countries, all enjoying the same formulas. 

Revolutionary Technology: Bioth-Ecology

Phytomer has been Eco Vadis certified, the world standard for green sustainable practices. In addition to using renewable energy sources, they also have gardens designed to filter and clean wastewater. They go about the collection of marine algae and coastal plants in a combination of special ways. Firstly, they use lyophilization (a type of freeze drying that desalinates as well) to solidify the ocean's minerals. By extracting with no chemicals or heat, they can keep a higher amount of high-quality ingredients. The image to the right is a photo of Phytomer's Oligomer ingredient.

Next, they have a patented lixiviation system or filtering technique. This allows them to pull out certain ingredients out, only what is needed. Finally, they use a supercritical CO2 extraction for lipids. Doing so in a fashion specific to the pharmaceutical field, this method preserves the potency and the actives found from the plant into an oil. They are dedicated to continually innovating and developing new production methods to reduce their environmental impact wherever possible.

How Bioth-Ecology Is Changing the Beauty Game

Along with their sustainability, Phytomer is one of 3 labs in the world that are creating a very special ingredient: EPS or Exopolysaccharides. These are sugars created naturally in nature. Each individual marine ingredient creates a variety of different EPS’s with varying benefits, and these labs have mastered how to use then replicate these sugars in numerous ways. Many combinations of EPS's can be found throughout Phytomer's line, as it is part of what makes the visible difference to your skin. The mastery of marine biology allow for this scientific breakthrough.

Working with Codif Technologie Naturelle, Phytomer uses their high valued cultivation technologies to grow plants and algae in identically the same (if not better) than their natural environment. Everything is pristinely replicated, from the speed of ocean currents to the day and night cycle, in order to produce the most perfect example of that ingredient. “It is a technology of copy and paste of the living,” Romuland Vallée of Codif explains. The goal with these biotechnologies is “to take nature, which is already a work of art, and extract the quintessence of it to eliminate everything that parasites it.”

“NEVER REINVENT WHAT NATURE HAS ALREADY CREATED & PERFECTED.” - Phytomer

Clean up Pollution in Your Skin: Phytomer's Anti-Pollution Line

Anti-pollution is not really a skin type but more of a skin condition. Everybody can be a victim of pollution, since 7 billion pollution particles land on the skin daily. Pollution dehydrates the skin and increases the release of pro-inflammatory molecules. Inflammation triggers many imbalances in the skin, including hyperpigmentation.

Pollution also increases cellular stress. As pollutants build up, they disrupt cellular respiration, which leads to slower cellular function and lack of oxygen in the skin. Oxygen is essential to cellular processes. With age, the amount of cellular oxygenation diminishes naturally, so pollutants really speed up the process. By age 30, oxygenation is down 25% and by age 40, a shocking 50%.

When the skin does not get enough oxygen, it can become asphyxiated. This means that a follicle or pore is obstructed, resulting in sebum and oil to become trapped under the surface of the skin. Your skin continually sheds or sloughs off dead skin cells, and will continue to build up even if it is unable to be properly removed. This can cause small bumps or cysts called milia to form. Not to be confused with traditional blemishes, milia are hardened skin deposits that need to be removed. Some milia is removed over time with proper cleansing and exfoliation (as needed, make sure not to overdo it), while others may need to be professional extracted. Everyone at Bellini's loves to perform extractions during our facial services, so if you are in need of removing milia we can definitely help you.

The purpose of Phytomer's Anti-Pollution line is to completely de-pollute the skin by targeting toxin particles and impurities that are deep in the pores. These products also focus on strengthening the skin, restoring balance, energizing and oxygenating the cells which makes them more receptive.

The Anti-Pollution line by Phytomer is quite large because there are different pollution components that affect skin, such as micro-pollutants and the bigger film-like particles on the skin. Some of the everyday pollutants we encounter are:

1. Air pollutants like car pollutants and particles. These clog pores, prevent the skin from breathing and activates the inflammatory cascade. Particles land on the skin and dissolve the hydrolipidic film which leads to dehydration and loss of suppleness. If this happens in the presence of UV rays, these particles generate toxins and free radicals, leading to many forms of cellular damage. 
2. Cigarettes. Cigarette smoke vasoconstricts (narrows) blood vessels and capillaries thus providing less oxygen and nutrients. This constriction slows the elimination of waste, and activates the inflammatory cascade. Pollution overwhelms skin’s natural defense and detoxification system, so it becomes asphyxiated. 

In the Anti-Pollution line there are a few active ingredients that find their way into most of the products. They include:

Ingredient	Purpose
Oligomer	The star of the brand, this is all of the world's trace minerals! Cells work better, have more energy, more cellular respiration, and cells are boosted! It's what started the brand.
Armeria Maritima	Coastal plant local to the Brittany region of France (where Phytomer started) that thrives in polluted soils and captures toxins from the soil through its roots. Making it very good detoxifier for the skin.
Phormidiane	Micro blue algae that grows in polluted waters. Puts a protective “net” on the skin that then catches pollution particles, so they don’t penetrate deeper.
Protease	Natural Exfoliating Enzyme, AHA-like without the particles, no irritation and high tolerance (no stinging, redness, drying).
CitySafe	The name given to a blend of 3 Marine Sugars that work to increase cell vitality, help with hydration, cellular fatigue and diminish dark spots. Also includes Palmaria Palmata, a red algae that aids in decongestion, and the antioxidant Eternelle Marine.
Oxygenol	Laminaria digitata or brown algae. This algae increases oxygen in the skin, 17% increase in basal cell respiration and 14% increase to mitochondrial respiration.

Anyone can use Phytomer's Anti-Pollution range. It is for all skin types, as pollution is more of a skin condition than skin type. Great after travel and spending time in airports, after long periods of stress, through hormonal changes, and those in heavy pollution for long periods of time. Anyone who bikes regularly will benefit from this line as well. It is very unlikely that you would not benefit from this line. So, which products should you look into? Follow our helpful guide below.

Concern: Pollution

CityLife Clay Mask – Clay mask that absorbs pollutants, detoxifying, activation microcirculation that helps in draining the tissue. As well as hydration and pigmentation due to pollution. Best for Normal to Oily skin.

CityLife Face & Contour Sorbet – Light, fresh sorbet texture. It protects and repairs from damage caused by urban pollution, dehydration, signs of fatigue, dark spots, dull complexion. All ages, All Skin Types. Great for men.

Concern: Detoxification / Oxygenation

Souffle Marin Foaming Cleanser – Does a deep cleanse of the skin, detoxifying. Foamy texture where a little product goes a long way. Great for dull, Dry, Normal, Combination, Mature, Oily in winter.  

Souffle Marin Serum –Forms a protective, anti-pollution shield on the skin while boosting oxygen levels in different layers of the skin. Giving a glowing complexion. Good for tired dull, polluted skin. Those working in heavy pollution need more brightness to their skin. Dry, Normal, Combination, Mature Skin

Micellar Water – Powerful yet gentle eye makeup remover that attracts makeup like a magnet while also strengthening our skin barrier by stimulating cell cohesion. Which helps protect against oxidative stress. All skin types

Concern: Cell Regeneration

CitySafe Flash Peel – Ultra-Cleansing Flash Peel, Gentle Detoxifying micro-peel cleans and refreshes complexion. Hydrates, exfoliates, encourages better cellular regeneration. Great for All Skin Types, all ages.

Oligo 6 Serum – Packed with 6 different vitality boosters. Energizing the skin cells, rebalancing the skin’s flora, and a boost of hydration, antioxidants and radiance. Best for Dry, Normal, Combination, Oily in winter skin.

Skin Lumination Complexion Cream – targeting irregular skin pigment as well as working on targeting wrinkles. Key ingredient: EPS Whitech; marine sugars that block the synthesis & transfer of melanin. Tackling all forms of hyperpigmentation (UV, pollution, stress, etc.) 35+, Normal, Dry, Mature, Combination

If you are still unsure what to get, or you feel like you need additional specialized assistance, feel free to reach out to us at Bellini's! We are always happy to help, and we love finding the right solutions for clients. Call us a t503.226.1526 or email us at [email protected] for assistance. For immediate answers, book a facial with us and get your skin on the right track today.

This article was written by Advanced Aesthetician Jillian Conover.

M;, Martic I;Jansen-Dürr P;Cavinato. “Effects of Air Pollution on Cellular Senescence and Skin Aging.” Cells, U.S. National Library of Medicine, https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/35883663/.